Many people with straight or wavy hair are surprised to find their locks turn curly when wet. If your hair transforms into ringlets in the shower but then goes straight or wavy as it dries, you have a texture that’s hidden when dry. There are several reasons why hair can exhibit a “wet curl” and ways to make the most of this curl pattern.
Understanding Wet Curl
Wet curl occurs due to the structure of the hair cuticle and hydrogen bonding. Here’s an explanation of the science behind the curl and why hair changes texture when wet:
The Hair Cuticle
The cuticle is the outermost layer of the hair strand. It’s made up of scales that overlap like shingles on a roof. When the cuticle is smooth and flat, light reflects to make the hair look straight.
Swelling of the Cuticle
When hair gets wet, water penetrates inside the cuticle and makes it swell and lift up. The scales become rougher. This disrupts light reflection, allowing the hair’s true wave or curl underneath to show.
Hydrogen Bonding
Hair maintains its structure through bonds within the cortex, including hydrogen bonds. Water causes these bonds to break temporarily so the hair structure relaxes. The strands can then spiral into their natural curl shape when wet.
Drying Reforms Bonds
As wet hair dries, hydrogen bonds reform to set the hair back into its usual pattern. This causes wet curls to loosen or disappear.
Curly Hair Has More Disulfide Bonds
Naturally, curly hair has more disulfide bonds in the cortex than straight hair. These bonds help curls spring back as the hair dries. Hair with fewer disulfide bonds loses its wet curl more easily.
The Role of Texture and Porosity
Hair with a naturally rough, uneven cuticle tends to show more texture when wet. Porous hair that absorbs moisture quickly and swells is also more prone to temporary wet curling.
Wet Curl vs. Natural Curl
How can you tell if your wet curl is just a temporary change or your hair’s real natural texture? Here are some ways to find out:
Check If Curl Remains After Drying
If your hair is still wavy or curly once completely air-dried without styling products, your natural texture is wavy or curly, not straight. Wetness allowed the waves to fully emerge.
Note When Curl Starts and Ends
Hair with a true natural curl will start curling closer to the roots when wet. Temporary wet curl often begins further down the hair shaft instead.
Consider Hair History
Think back—has your hair always curled up to some degree when wet ever since you were a child? If so, that’s a sign of innate texture.
Analyze Individual Strands
Use a magnifying mirror to analyze your hair. Naturally, curly hair will show a rippled cuticle on each strand. A temporary wet curl doesn’t alter the strand shape.
Check Thickness and Density
Thicker, denser hair is more likely to have hidden curls. Thin, fine hair won’t show as much temporary texture when wet.
Do a Twist Test
Twist a 1-2 inch section of dry hair. If it doesn’t easily spiral, your hair is likely lacking natural curl.
Making the Most of Wet Curl
If your hair exhibits temporary wet curl, you can enhance and extend the curl by:
Using Curly Hair Products
Try a curl-enhancing shampoo, conditioner, cream, or gel. These will help keep hair curly as it dries.
Air Drying
Let hair dry naturally without brushing or heat-styling to allow wet curls time to set into place.
Applying Hold Products
Use a mousse, setting lotion, or styling paste on wet hair before air drying. This helps lock in the wet curl shape.
Diffusing Upside Down
Diffuse hair gently with a blow dryer attachment, positioning the head upside down to boost volume and curl.
Using Rollers or Braids
Set sections of wet hair in foam rollers, flexi-rods, or braids to help train hair to remember its curly shape.
Getting a Perm
A body wave perm makes temporary wet curl permanent by restructuring bonds. This gives lasting waves daily.
When to Embrace Wet Curl vs. Fight It
Should you try to enhance wet curl or remove it? Here are guidelines for when to flaunt the texture vs. when to fight it:
Enhance Wet Curl When:
If you have thick hair that forms well-defined spirals when wet, opting for a wet curl approach might be the perfect solution for you. This technique not only enhances the natural volume and texture of your hair but also aligns with the desire to minimize styling time. Air-drying wet curls reduces the need for heat styling, offering a break for damaged hair that has undergone chemical treatments or frequent exposure to heat. Embracing this method allows you to celebrate your natural curls while promoting healthier and more vibrant hair.
Fight Wet Curl When:
- It makes hair look uneven and frizzy.
- Your hair is fine and delicate so wet curl doesn’t form defined spirals.
- You prefer sleek, smooth styles over texture.
- It’s a temporary change you aren’t fond of.
- Air drying takes too long and isn’t practical for your lifestyle.
Wet Curl Care Tips
Caring for wet curl hair requires some specialized techniques. Follow these tips to keep hair healthy and make styling easier:
Shampooing and Conditioning Wet Curl Hair
- Use a moisturizing, sulfate-free shampoo and silicone-free conditioner made for curly hair.
- Detangle with lots of conditioners in your hair using a wide-tooth comb.
- Wash in sections to prevent tangles.
- Squish in conditioner and avoid rinsing it all out.
Drying Wet Curl Hair
When it comes to drying your curly hair, opt for a gentle approach to maintain those beautiful curls. Instead of vigorously rubbing your hair with a towel, try blotting it with an old t-shirt to prevent frizz. Let your hair air dry naturally if you want to preserve those curls – avoid brushing or using heat for drying. If you’re in a hurry, you can speed up the drying process by using a diffuser attachment on low heat and low speed. Another cool trick is to air dry your hair in braids or scrunch it with a styling product to enhance and encourage the formation of those gorgeous curls.
Styling Products for Wet Curl Hair
- Leave-in conditioners provide hydration and detangling.
- Curl creams and gels enhance definition and cut down on frizz.
- The mousse gives bouncy, touchable curls with volume.
- Anti-humectants prevent moisture overload on humid days.
- Oils like argan prevent dryness and add shine.
Nighttime Care for Wet Curl Hair
- Protect curls overnight with a satin bonnet or pillowcase.
- Apply a nourishing overnight hair mask or oil.
- Pineapple hair loosely on top of your head.
- Sleep on a silk or satin pillowcase.
- In the morning, mist hair with water to reactivate the product.
Preventing Damage to Wet Curl Hair
To keep your hair healthy and vibrant, it’s essential to follow a few simple tips. First, try to limit the use of hot styling tools, as excessive heat can lead to damage over time. Additionally, avoid over-washing and over-brushing your hair, as this can strip away natural oils and cause breakage. Regular trims are also key to maintaining healthy hair, as they help remove split ends and prevent further damage.
Consider incorporating a deep conditioning routine into your weekly hair care regimen using a moisturizing hair mask. Lastly, protect your hair from potential damage by avoiding prolonged exposure to chlorine, saltwater, and UV rays. These small steps can go a long way in ensuring your hair stays beautiful and resilient.
FAQs
How do you lock in wet curl?
Use styling products with hold like mousse or gel. Air dry instead of heat styling. Set hair in rollers or braids while wet.
Should I brush wet curly hair?
No, only comb wet curly hair with a wide-tooth comb to avoid frizz and breakage.
Can I straighten wet curly hair?
You can, but use lower heat and always apply a thermal protectant spray first to prevent damage.
What is the curly girl method?
This involves ditching shampoo, using a lot of conditioners, avoiding heat styling, and using curly hair styling products.
What causes wet frizzy hair?
Frizz is caused by damage to the cuticle that makes hair unable to retain moisture. Correct by deep conditioning regularly.
How do I make my wet curls last longer?
Use curl-enhancing and holding products, let hair air dry, and use hair rollers or braids to help train curls.
Conclusion
If your straight or wavy hair transforms into curly ringlets when wet, you have a texture that’s revealed when the cuticle swells and bonds break temporarily due to water exposure. Learn to care for and enhance your wet curl if you love the look or use heat styling and anti-frizz products to smooth it out. Either way, embrace the unique tendencies of your tresses!
